How is cubic zirconia made?

Hoe wordt zirkonia gemaakt?
Geschreven door: Sharon van het Hof

Cubic zirconia is made in a lab. Manufacturers melt zirconium oxide powder at more than 2700 degrees Celsius and then let it cool very slowly. This grows clear crystals, which a cutter then facets into the sparkling stones in your earrings. Below you can read step by step how this happens, and why the result shines so beautifully.

Where does cubic zirconia come from?

Cubic zirconia does not come from the ground. It is a crystal that people make. Its official name is cubic zirconia, often shortened to CZ. The word cubic refers to the cubic structure of the crystal, and that very structure gives the stone its clear shine.

The story starts in the seventies. Researchers at the Lebedev Institute in Moscow found a way to grow large, pure crystals. They published their method in 1973. Three years later, production started on a large scale, and since then cubic zirconia has been used in jewellery all over the world.

Bold Fuse Small Creolen Zirconia

Bold Fuse Small Hoops Zirconia

Not the same as zircon

Pay close attention to the name. Zircon is a natural mineral from the earth. Cubic zirconia sounds similar, but it is a different material. Want to know the difference between stones from nature and stones from a lab? Then read more about natural and synthetic gemstones.

How does the melting work exactly?

The method is called skull melting. The name sounds exciting, but the idea is simple. The powder sits in an open container made of copper tubes, and cold water flows through those tubes.

A strong electric field heats the powder from the inside. The centre melts, while the outside stays cool and forms a hard crust. That crust is the skull. So it is a container made of the same material, holding the hot core in place.

Why an extra ingredient is needed

Pure zirconium oxide does not stay clear after cooling. That is why makers add a small amount of yttrium oxide or calcium oxide. According to reference books on this material, it is often about ten percent. This addition keeps the crystal stable and colourless.

How does the crystal grow?

After melting, the machine lowers the heat step by step. The block cools from the bottom up. Long, clear crystals grow in the process, a bit like icicles. This takes hours.

Then the makers break the block open. Only the most beautiful and purest pieces go on to the cutting workshop. The rest is discarded, so only the clear material remains.

Flora Push Back Oorbellen Zirconia

Flora Push Back Earrings Zirconia

From rough crystal to sparkling stone

A cutter gives each crystal facets. These are small, flat surfaces at precise angles. The better those angles are, the more light the stone reflects. A well cut cubic zirconia therefore shows lots of tiny rainbow flashes when you move your head.

Why does cubic zirconia sparkle so much?

That comes down to two properties. The first is refraction. Cubic zirconia bends light strongly, with a refractive index of about 2.15. Diamond is at 2.42, so the two are close.

The second property is called dispersion. It shows how strongly a stone splits white light into colours. In cubic zirconia it is even higher than in diamond, which is why you often see more coloured fire. Want to see all the differences side by side? Then read about the difference between cubic zirconia and diamond.

How tough is the crystal?

On the Mohs scale, cubic zirconia scores 8 to 8.5. For comparison, glass is around 5.5 and diamond is 10. So cubic zirconia does not scratch easily and can handle daily wear. After years, the edges of the facets do wear down a little, especially if you often knock the stone.

What does this mean for your earrings?

The stone is only half the story. The setting and the metal decide how long your earring stays beautiful. The earrings in this collection are made of 925 sterling silver, with a gold plated or rhodium plated finish. Gold plated is a layer of 14 carat gold on the silver, and rhodium plated has a bright, white shine.

The design is created in the Netherlands. Artisans in Italy, Bangkok and Hong Kong then make the jewellery by hand, using techniques that are centuries old. The founder visits these workshops regularly and checks every detail, from the clasp to the setting of a stone.

Edge Creolen Zirconia

Edge Hoops Zirconia

Also in bracelets

Cubic zirconia is not only found in earrings. You also find the stone in a tennis bracelet, where a long row of small stones forms a line of light. Take a look at the tennis bracelets for a few lovely examples.

Ready to choose for yourself?

Now you know how a clear stone is made: melting, slow cooling and cutting. That explains the strong shine and the friendly price. Then choose a design that suits your style, from small studs to statement hoops. You will find all designs in the cubic zirconia earrings collection.

Frequently asked questions about how cubic zirconia is made

I'm happy to answer a few frequently asked questions:

Is cubic zirconia a real stone?

Cubic zirconia is a real crystal, but not a natural stone. People make it in a lab. It does have a fixed crystal structure, just like stones from nature.

Does cubic zirconia come in colours too?

Yes. Makers then add a small amount of another metal oxide during melting. This creates pink, purple or green stones. In this collection you will also find black, purple and green baguette stones, for example.

Is cubic zirconia heavier than diamond?

Yes. Cubic zirconia is about 1.7 times as heavy as a diamond of the same size. With small stones in earrings, you will hardly notice it.

How long does cubic zirconia stay beautiful?

For years, with good care. Clean the stone now and then with lukewarm water and a soft cloth. Skin oils and creams quickly make it look dull.

Want to know more, or have questions? The experts at Sparkling Jewels are happy to help.